HMS Astute - Hobbyboss 1/700

This is how it looks after painting and decalling. Not how gritty the surface looks like: had trouble working with Vallejo Model Air Gloss varnish. Need to practice more...

1/72 Cararama Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo 2001

Well, I ruined this. The Mig Thinner penetrated the layers of paint and melted the foam core, warping everything. I thought this only happened with stronger solvents, I should have given everything a thick coat of primer instead of white glue :\ This was a waste of my precious time, it's really frustrating.

Stupid mistake! Look how warped it got as the core melted because of the oil wash. The top-left corner of the wall also warped..

Mould Making Resin Casting and Others

Ah! Silicone...

Well, here's another video that shows the way I usually make silicone rubber molds. Instead of making a two-part mold, I cut it in half afterwards...

Great site:

HMS Astute - Hobbyboss 1/700

Assembly was easy but I had to use a little bit of Tamiya putty. Decals will be next.

HMS Astute - Hobbyboss 1/700

Another 3.5 euro kit by Hobbyboss, this time the HMS Astute.

HMS Astute is a nuclear-powered submarine in the Royal Navy, the lead ship of her class. Astute was ordered from GEC's Marconi Marine (now BAE Systems Submarine Solutions) on 17 March 1997. She was laid down on 31 January 2001, 100 years to the day since the keel was laid down for Holland 1, the first Royal Navy submarine. Astute was built in Barrow-in-Furness and launched on 8 June 2007 by HRH The Duchess of Cornwall. Now that she has been commissioned, Astute is one of the most 'advanced submarines in the world'.[3]

As usual, the sprues are in separate poly bags with some of the finer bits wrapped in foam sheet. There really isn't much to this one though the builder will have to break out the drill twist set. The various antennas and things on the bridge will need to have their mounting holes drilled by the modeller prior to installation.

The rest of the build is simply assembling the hull halves, the upper and lower stabilizers, the dive planes and the rear prop housing. Those particularly unmotivated can leave off the upper bridge stuff as those would be fully retracted when under water. A three piece display stand with the boat's name already printed on it and a nicely done decal sheet (not shown) complete the kit.

Airfix Mk II Male Lusitania - Arras 1917

I polished the frame with 2000 grit sand paper and applied a couple of coats of Pledge/Future, to seal everything.

1/72 Cararama Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo 2001

The base was covered with a mix of wall spackling compound, water and a bit of white glue for extra strenght. After it dried, I gave it a black undercoat with Tamiya XF-1.

Tamiya's Desert Yellow, White and Black were used for the earth tones:

The road got a few veils of well diluted Tamiya German Grey and, after that, I covered everything with Vallejo Gloss

Oils paints will be used next. This is more or less how it looks now, as the photos were taken with my mobile phone.

1/72 Cararama Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo 2001

Styrofoam and carboard glued with white-glue. The tarmac surface was replicated with 320 grit sandpaper.

1/72 Cararama Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo 2001

 I have a couple of these 1/72 cars made by Hongwell/Cararama/Schuco, and I decided to make some small display stands after coming across these awesome creations by a japanese modeller:

 The first miniature I'll b working on will be a replica of the Subaru Impreza used by Petter Solberg in Monte Carlo, in 2001.

Here's a cool site to see the changes on the Subaru Impreza World Rally Car, throughout the years:

And here are a few photos of a section of the race course, near Aiglun, that has been inspiring me:


I'll update this project soon.

Airfix Mk II Male Lusitania - Arras 1917

The frame is ready, I was able to achieve what I intended and I'm happy with it.

So, first of all, I used some cheap acrylic colours to get the redish-brown paint I wanted as a base coat.

Then, I mixed some yellow and burnt sienna oil paint to make the streaks that imitate the wood grain flow. WingnutsWings explains this method on their site and so does Rato Marczak on his:

Finally, I gave it a wash with burnt umber oil paint that is now drying, after which I'll overcoat everything with a semi-gloss varnish. Note that I brush the frame heavily with a stiff brush to give it an worn-out look.

The tank and it's base still needs a few touch-ups too.